■   “Depending on who’s showing up at the feast, Thanksgiving can go in many directions. The blend of personalities can range from toxic to sublime. The food can be breathtaking or comic, and the wine, well, the more the merrier, though sometimes the less said about it the better. We on the Dining section’s wine panel experience Thanksgiving no differently, except that we celebrate it a few weeks early in hopes of solving this knotty problem.” [#]